To protect the puppy’s health, stopover to select a puppy is not desirable; therefore, live-stream video is designed to provide the unparalleled opportunity to watch each puppy to facilitate selection and reservation.

(For more Information see "Visitation Policy")

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The Whelping Pause 

 

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Puppy and Dam's care and Development Stages:

 

BIRTH TO THREE WEEKS

•  You can see the tongue—this shows proper latch-on.

• The pups can be so strong that when the Dam stands up, they can hang on and get dragged.

• At this stage, it is important to check for swollen teats, and make sure you put a pup on the full teats to prevent mastitis, an excess of milk that may cause the dam to become restless and uncomfortable

• Pups should start gaining right away—0 to 20 grams the first day. Watch for puppies whose weight goes down. Pups should double their birth weight at eight to 11 days.

• The nutritional requirements of the dam while nursing are very high. It is wise to add vitamins to the diet with larger litters, and keep the dam on high quality puppy food. A lack of fluids in the diet will lower her milk supply, so make sure there is always fresh water available.

• In the first three to four weeks, the dam will totally care for the puppies. She will feed them clean them and clean up after them. Keep puppy nails trimmed so they do not tear at the dam with sharp claw tips.

 

DAY THREE OR FOUR AFTER BIRTH

• The dam may develop diarrhea, this is often from cleaning up puppy waste but usually a dose of Pepto-Bismol or two will really help.

• The dam's discharge is usually gone by 2 weeks, but can last up to 8 weeks.

• Pups should be weighed twice daily for the first few days.

• Put the pups that are slower gainers on the teats, for a head start put the smaller pups on the larger teats. If there are five pups and eight teats, then a few times a day you can make sure the smaller puppies get to drain two teats. If you do not do this, then the big puppies ALWAYS get two teats, and gain weight even more rapidly. It is intervening, but it works very well to pick up the slower puppies.

• After the birth, the dam's hair always falls out while she is raising a litter. Up to 60% of it can fall out, but normally 40% does. It likely happens to help cool them; this is normal and it can come out in chunks. If too much hair falls out too fast, she could be lacking something in her diet. Sometimes you will not notice much hair at all come out. Some lose it gradually, some suddenly.

• PUPS AT ONE WEEK; all pups have doubled their birth weights, all are equally thriving.

 

 

WEEK 1

• Whelping box with a lip for the first 2½ weeks, so ONLY the dam can get out, but the pups are contained.

• Keep the box/nest VERY CLEAN

 (Make sure the lip is low enough so the dam doesn't have to blindly leap in, but can aim her step in, and high enough so pups do not get out and get chilled.)

 

WEEK 2.5

• Divide whlp box by 2

• For large breeds, at 2½ to 3 weeks the paper MUST be right outside the door.

• For small breeds, at 3 to 3½ weeks the paper MUST be right outside the door.

• At this time, the lip/door should be removed, so the pups can get out of the whelping box on their own, and find their way back in. (Kind of like removing the den door.)

• THEN, you can move the potty area farther and farther away from the bed. Pups like it at opposite end.

 

WEEK 3

• The whelping box is only good for the first three weeks, then they need a mini home which includes potty station and of course a play area too. They are now ready to start being housetrained using the Misty Method. Breeders that use the Misty Method teach their pups the concept of housetraining before they leave for their new homes.

• At three weeks, the pups are becoming more mobile. The door from the whelping box has been removed, and they are beginning to venture out to explore and relieve themselves on a papered area twice the size of their whelp box. At this time, I keep the bed clean and smelling fresh, and only change the paper outside minimally. They learn to go outside to eliminate very quickly, as by day 21 they have developed their sense of smell, and will start to discriminate where to relieve themselves. They can now eliminate without stimulation, but the dam should still continue to clean up after them.

• They are beginning to play a little with themselves and littermates, and are becoming more aware of their environment, and slightly vocal. I hear the odd attempt at a bark. I will add toys this week (no Beanie Babies or buttoned toys). At this time teeth can begin to erupt and they can begin to lap liquids, so I will also add a shallow dish of water.

 

 

WEEK 3 TO 4

• When they are 3 to 4 weeks, they will come out of their bed and pee right away, sometimes they only get their front feet out.

• After they are more mobile, you move the potty away from the bed area. I will line a litter box with paper, but not litter.

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• BETWEEN 3 TO 5 WEEKS, depending on the breed, the puppies are eating soaked kibble. Be sure to introduce the solid food slowly. Give them only a few bites of soaked kibble or up to a teaspoon of gruel the first day and gradually increase the amount. Start slowly offering a little more each day. Do not just give them a bowl full the first day. You have to get their tummies adjusted to the new type of food. Before you introduce food make sure you have wormed the pups the week before so that you do not do both at the same time or you could irritate the stomach and cause diarrhea and irritable bowel.

• It is advisable not to start pups on solids too young. There is no formula as to when to start, as the health of the dam and pups and the breed plays a role, but it is best not to start too early. You need to take into account the breed (smaller dogs wean later), the health of the dam, the size of the litter and if the dam's body is holding its own or being dragged down and if the dam has enough milk. Often if you do not start solids by the time the dam feels it is time she will take matters in her own hands and regurgitate food for the pups. This is your cue to start feeding them.

• Some recommend adding a little bit of low-fat plain yogurt and a little bit of low-fat cottage cheese for puppies over the age of 6 months and to the dam's diet. If the puppies have worms or are introduced to solid food too quickly it can sometimes bring on diarrhea. Canned pumpkin is known to help treat diarrhea and is often given to lactating dams. Be sure to properly worm your dam and pups. Always ask your vet's advice.

• Larger breeds can start food at 3.5 to 4 weeks, but the toy breeds generally do not need solids till 4.5 to 5 weeks (but again, this depends on litter size, and the quality of care the dam is giving the puppies).

• They are becoming quite active, and should spend lots of time with the dam. You will notice group playing.

• It is good to put them on their backs, in a submissive position, daily. Each pup needs individual attention.... Weekly nail trimming and weighing should continue.

• Assorted noises, like TV, radio, child’s play, etc. should be part of daily routine.

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WEEK 5

• At five weeks, the pen has again been expanded to include a play area.

• A bowl of fresh water and dry kibble are always available.

• Puppies want to chew. Chew, rattle and pull toys have been added.

• Feed three soaked meals of puppy food to pups daily. Start reducing the dam’s food to lessen her milk production, but keep her on puppy food for a few more weeks.

• Feeding tip: When feeding the puppies, consider using a deep-dish muffin tin! They can't knock it over and each one gets its own little dish.

• Call your vet and make appointments for 7.5 to 9 weeks old (first booster shots). Puppies should have been wormed at 3 and 5 weeks with a mild wormer, and will need a stronger one at 7 to 8 weeks. Talk to your vet about this.

• Giving shots before 7 weeks is not advised. The second and third shot need to be done after 12 weeks to be most effective. The general guide is 8, 12 and 16 weeks for booster shots.

• It is VERY important that puppies get individual attention at this age, including time separated from littermates.

• This early socialization has been proven to benefit the puppy in later years. Scientific studies have shown dogs that receive this early proper socialization actually have increased brain mass.  They are also better at problem solving, and make much more enjoyable, intelligent companions.

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"In the morning when I wake up to this poop, I quickly just COVER it with another piece of paper, as shown above. Then after they all say hi and have breakfast, I change all the paper while they are eating. Remember before five weeks, you leave the smelly poop there to attract them, and just cover it. But once they catch on and always use the paper you can keep it clean and change it more. Do not leave the exposed poop for the puppies to run through and track all over. You do NOT want the puppies’ feet to be covered in poop (or bodies when they start to play and roll). A sign that a puppy has not been raised in a clean environment would be yellow/brown stained legs. Remember, this EARLY training from a breeder makes it much easier for the new owner to train the puppy."

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WEEK 6-7

• Ideally at 6 to 7 weeks old, you will have an 8 x 10' area for small breeds or a larger area for large breeds with a bed in one corner, and food and potty at opposite sides of the pen.

Note: The stools should never be soft, and never be mushy. If they are soft or mushy (pudding-like) ask the vet for enough wormer to worm all the puppies and mom. Take a stool sample in for testing. The stool shouldn't smell horribly bad. If the stool is not solid and it smells horrible, you want to check for stool Coccidia (coccidiosis). Loose stools also make the job of cleaning up after your pups ten times harder.

 

Stools should be like little chocolate bars. It is normal to have bouts of soft stool, but do not let it continue on an ongoing basis. Find out why, and get them solid again. Otherwise, they will run through it, and it becomes a real mess as they track it everywhere.

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WEEK 6

• At six weeks, the pups have now fully developed their vision and hearing, but are still too young to respond to a name. They are ready to investigate anything. They should be starting to wean or be nearly weaned. Putting a weaning bra on the dam promotes her to spend more time with the puppies, but they are unable to nurse. Some dams want to spend more time with the pups, but they cannot.

• By putting a snap-up shirt on the dam, she will spend more time playing with the puppies. You do not want them constantly trying to nurse at this age, stimulating milk production. The shirt is an easy way to stop the puppies from nursing, and works well. These shirts come in a variety of sizes from a children's department store.

• The puppies can get free time to run around the 20' x 20' kitchen, and play with the other dogs... Their world is gradually getting larger...a little at a time, so as not to overwhelm them. This is the age they start to love to explore new things.

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Week 6 to 7.5

• By six weeks puppies need much more room than they do at five weeks. It has been proven to work best to have the potty area farthest away from where you greet the puppies

• New owners: It is recommended that when you first get your puppy at 8 weeks or older, you immediately begin the type of potty training that will be routine, i.e. outside. All dogs prefer to go outside.

• Pen designed for the Misty Method of housebreaking very young puppies.

• Using the Misty Method, at seven weeks, the play area has been expanded to its maximum size as they are really playful now, and need room to run, romp and roll.

• Included in this box are enough toys for each to take one home. It will smell very nice and familiar to them. They are also being introduced to crates.

• At six weeks pups are NOT yet ready to have their first set of booster shots. I like to wait till they are seven or eight weeks old. Booster shots should be done a few days before the pup leaves for his/her new home, not on the same day. 

• This will be their second visit to the vet; the first was at three days old for an exam and dew claw removal.

• Remember, this first set of three booster shots ONLY protects the puppy for you to get this puppy home. New puppies should NEVER be socialized outside the family home or your own fenced-in yard (fenced, as you do not want strange dogs eliminating in your yard). The next set of shots is due four weeks after the first, and this puts minimal protection on the puppy, allowing you to socialize with friends’ dogs and homes that you know 100% have been vaccinated and are healthy. The last set of boosters, including rabies, is done in another four weeks. Your puppy is now protected, and is able to go to the park, where unknown dogs have been. At seven weeks, puppies can be taught small training skills, and they are also able to start to recognize their name.

 

WEEK 7.5

• Seven and a half-week-old puppies at the vet

• Vet shopping: If you do not have a vet you have a good relationship with, shop for a new vet. I recommend that if you are not totally convinced by the second set of shots that this is the vet for you and your new companion, then try a different vet for the third set of shots. I love my vet (there are six at the clinic), and they LOVE my dogs and puppies as their own.

• Breeders that use the Misty Method have their puppies well on their way to being housetrained before they leave the breeder.

• (From resource link) Puppies in this litter and they are all using the poop station. All of them. They are already on their way to being housebroken and they have not even left the breeder’s home. There needs to be a divider between the poop station and the play area because puppies run and play and roll and drag and chew the paper. The divider, even if it's a small one, HOLDS the paper down and in place. The picture shown above has the divider removed for cleaning. When they are playing, it kind of sections it off and stops them from running into the potty area to play—they just don't. They play in the clean area, and even excited they will sometimes run on the paper, but not as much. The wood is awesome, but doesn't need to go full length and it does not need a door.

• When you do not have a separate place for the pups to poop, they just poop where they play, and then roll and play in it....  AHHHHHH...And when you try to clean it up they mob you and the pile of poop. The dog door works awesome. I can lock them on either side while I clean up mistakes, or change the paper or bedding. The door can be closed.

• Tips on paper-training a litter of pups...which make housetraining much easier. Pre-housetraining should be part of the process in housetraining a dog. One of the leading causes for dog neglect, and the dog becoming a fixture in the backyard, is from poor house habits. It is a well-known fact that no one wants a dog that hasn't learned to eliminate outside or in a designated indoor potty station, wandering loose in the house. It is also the most enjoyable relationship to have your dog involved in everyday family activities. This IS why you got the dog in the first place, isn't it??? No one wants a dog that hasn't learned to eliminate outside or in a designated spot in the house.

• Do not raise the puppies in one big box or put the paper in a corner; the pups will just drag the paper everywhere and play with it. With experience, I have learned sectioned rooms work best. That is how a house is... bedroom or crate, play living area, a place to eat, and a door to go outside. Even outside, dogs create a place to eliminate and usually go to that area repeatedly.

• Do not change the paper too often in the beginning, as you are creating the odor of an elimination spot to trigger instinct. I advise covering poop and pee with a layer of paper during the day and cleaning up each morning, leaving one piece of paper with pee smell. You cannot keep too clean, as when young the smell is what draws them to that area If you leave the paper soiled, they will also find another place to go... So you have to find a happy medium, which is clean, but smelling like a bathroom. By seven weeks, you can change the paper as often as you like, as it isn't the smell that is drawing them; they have learned that is the designated area to eliminate.

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WEEK 8,9,10

New Owners

After about 8, 9, 10 weeks of age, or when the puppy arrives at it's new home, the dog should be taught to go potty outside. Do not have paper or potty pads inside your home. Peeing is for outside only, or you are teaching your new pup it is okay to potty inside your home.

 

Take advantage of any early training the breeder hopefully has already done. Teach your pup to potty on a designated spot outdoors, making him think.

 

After you bring home your new puppy the first thing you need to teach the pup is to walk to the door. Do not carry it. Make the puppy walk or it will not learn to alert you.

 

Do not use treats when potty training as it takes the dog's focus off of the business at hand and puts it on the food. You do not want the dog's brain to be on food when it is time to relieve itself. This often causes a dog to not completely finish eliminating because the dog is looking and waiting for food. The dog will often come back inside the home and go to the bathroom again after just being out. Keep the focus on the task at hand. Rewards for pottying should be the relief the dog feels when it empties itself, your happiness that the dog did the right thing, along with verbal praise, a pet and/or back scratch. Dogs can feel when the humans are happy.

 

Do NOT use the Misty Method for older puppies. This method is only for pups 3 to 8 weeks of age who have not yet left the breeder.

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Stages of Puppy Development

 

Birth to 3 WEEKS

The first 20 days of a pups life it is not capable of much learning. The mental capacity is about nil. The pup will react when it is in need of food, sleep, warmth and its mother. During the first 3 weeks it is VERY important to look after the dam as well. She will in turn, look after the puppies. Once or twice a day the puppies should be handled by a human and they should be weighed daily. During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life.

 

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3 to 4 WEEKS

On the 21st day it is almost like there is a new litter of puppies. No matter what the breed, this is the time when the dormant senses wake up. From day 21 to 28 puppies are in need of their mom more than any other time as their brains and nervous systems begin to develop and they become aware of their surroundings. As mom jumps out of the box, they suddenly watch her wondering where she went. Pups may start climbing out of the whelping box at this age, so it is time to expand their home. At this stage we add a small potty area beside the whelp box. If a puppy were to loose his mom at this stage it would greatly affect his emotional well-being. Emotional growth is just blossoming as the puppy realizes it is alive. It is also at this age that characteristics can develop like shyness and fear. Any negative characteristics that develop at this stage in life are often permanent personality traits.

 

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4 to 7 WEEKS

From day 29 to 49 puppies will venture away from the whelp box sleeping area. They will not go far, but they will begin to explore. At this time we expand their area to add a play and eating area in the daytime. This is the time to move them out to the kitchen and family room area, where life is happening in the home. This is not the age to be in the back bedroom, garage or barn. During this time, a puppy will learn to respond to voices, sounds and recognize different people. The puppies in their group will establish a 'pecking order', some will want to lead and some will want to follow. The dominant ones will eat first and the omega ones will wait. The dominant ones can become bullies and hog all the toys. This is an important stage to watch to learn the temperaments of each puppy and should be used for placing puppies into the proper homes. Some scientific studies prove that if there is a bully in a litter that is making others cower and be shy it can set in traits that are very hard to turn around, but it is also important to leave puppies in a social group long enough to be adventurous and for the puppy to acquire some social competitive skills. On the same note, a puppy should never be allowed to get too pushy. While shyer puppies have to learn to handle themselves in social groups, a dominant puppy needs to learn it is not acceptable to be a bully. Different breeds need to be separated at different ages. Often if the bully is adopted out first the remaining puppies will loose some of their shyness.

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By 7 weeks, a pup is considered emotionally developed and ready to learn, but the pup does not possess an adult brain yet. At 7 weeks old the breeder of the pups can start crate training for an hour or two a day with 2 pups in a crate. This helps with separation anxiety. By 8 weeks of age a puppy should be able to go in a crate alone for a nap, and it is almost ready for its new home.

 

A puppy should never be taken away from it's mother before 7-8 weeks of age. The mother dog teaches the puppies in the litter manners, respect, social skills, and proper etiquette, along with many other valuable lessons. When a puppy misses this stage it can cause the pup to have future behavior issues as most humans do not understand natural dog behavior enough to teach the pup these things.

 

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7 to 12 WEEKS

From day 50 on the pup is operating to a capacity where it is ready for life away from his littermates. What a puppy learns now will be retained and become part of who the dog becomes and his personality. Most dams stop caring for their pups by 7 weeks, as they have teeth and she pushes them away. If a pup is left with the dam during this period it's emotional development can be altered, as it remains dependent on her. The same can happen if littermates are placed together. They rely on each other instead of the new owner and they often do not find adequate security in their mom or littermate. They need their new owner to take over the role and it is important that the humans understand natural dog behavior in order to fulfill the puppies instincts and needs. First shots should be done at 7.5 to 8 weeks of age.

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When a puppy stays with his litter after 8 to 9 weeks of age without adequate human contact it doesn't adjust as well to a human social life. The optimum time to take a new puppy is from 8 to 9 weeks of age. It is always best to have a pup do his learning from his new owner and in his new home. Puppies are often adopted out at 8, 9, 10 or 11 weeks. Older puppies can do just fine if the breeder has spent a lot of time socializing them away from their littermates. Ideally 9 weeks seems to be the perfect age for most breeds to go to new homes. What the dog learns from 8 to 12 weeks will be with him forever. At this time the puppy must be introduced to other people and go for walks on the pavement (street) avoiding dirt or grass until it has had its 2nd shots. If the first shots are done at 8 weeks and second are done at 12 weeks it is a good idea to enroll in puppy kindergarten that starts right at 12 weeks.

 

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12 to 16 WEEKS - NEW OWNERS

A puppy at this age is comfortable in his new home and instinctually feels the need to form a pack. It is important to keep in mind that all puppies by this time have formed a general personality. Some are natural born leaders, some are middle of the road and could go either way and some are very submissive and really prefer not to lead anything.

 

All puppies have an instinct to have a leader who can provide structure, because in their minds without it the pack cannot survive. Therefore even the most naturally born submissive dog may feel the need to take over as an alpha should they feel everyone else around them is too weak to care for the pack. These dogs are often very stressed out about their role because they really do not want it, but feel the need to lead just the same. After all, to them it's a matter of life or death.

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One of the biggest questions new owners call about is that the pup is an angel for the first couple weeks and then it starts to nip in an attempt to control things around it. This happens when a puppy does not see the humans as natural born leaders to which it can respect and it attempts to get the pack in order. If this happens it does not necessarily mean you got a bad puppy, but often means you are not being a good canine owner. Owners must be calm but firm and follow through. Set the rules of the home and stick to them. Teach basic obedience and how to heel on a leash. Do not let the puppy bolt out the door. Stay calm and confident and remember that dogs can feel your emotions. If you have emotional problems your dog knows and will see you as a weak being. Always remember to a dog anger is a weakness, so take a deep breath and control yourself.

 

Should the puppy feel it is stronger minded than the humans it will not want to be at the bottom. Puppy owners should be prepared that the pup may attempt to establish itself as the dominant one in the family. This is where you need TO UNDERSTAND A DOG'S NATURAL INSTINCTS and LEARN THEIR LANGUAGE so you can read them. It may see whether it can physically strike out at his owner (like some teens) and could nip or growl. Should this happen be prepared to STOP THE BEHAVIOR IMMEDIATELY. It is kind of like kids wanting dessert before dinner or to stay up later. You just have to say NO. Each dog is different, just as kids are, therefore you need to figure out what works for you and your situation. If it is being aggressive one method is to pin it on its back and hold him there with a firm NO.

 

If a pup is allowed to GET AWAY WITH BAD BEHAVIOR IT WILL LOSE RESPECT FOR THE OWNER and LEARN THAT REBELLING GETS HIM HIS OWN WAY. The key is for the HUMANS TO BE CALM, CONFIDENT and FIRM all AT THE SAME TIME. If you find yourself yelling or angry you as the human are OUT OF CONTROL and NEED to LEARN how to PORTRAY YOURSELF as SOMEONE YOUR DOG CAN LOOK UP TO and RESPECT. Dogs do not listen to unstable humans and anything but calm, confident and firm, to them is unstable. There should be zero tolerance for aggressiveness. Heaps of love and understanding will not stop bad behavior. A pup must be shown fast and firmly that you are the one in charge.

 

If it persists call the breeder and/or a dog behaviorist who understands natural dog behavior for help. If you have a good breeder who understands the dog even returning him for a few days can help as the breeder gets the dog back under control and you assess your own behavior and understanding of this animal you are trying to live with. Sending a dog away to be trained without training yourself never works, as the way your dog is acting often has more to do with the humans it is living with. You can send your dog away to be trained, but if the dog returns to a human who still does not understand its needs, acts like a weak follower and/or is an emotional train wreck inside the dog will return to it's old ways. This goes for any dog of any age.

 

Learn how to groom your dog. Teach it to lie still for grooming and nail trimming. If you are having trouble call the breeder or a behaviorist for help. It is best to have earned a dog's respect and trust in regards to grooming by 16 weeks of age.

 

A pup’s natural instinct will be to periodically try to test the order in the pack. Especially if there are children. If the owner is submissive, quiet and week, thus making the dog feel the need to lead the home, its respect for its owner will weaken and the owner will become inferior in the dogs eyes. In these cases the owner is destined to be owned by the dog and you will surely see behavior problems emerge.

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A puppy should have a good start on crate training when it leaves a breeder's home. Help your puppy feel secure by giving it its own bed and crate in a place where it can be alone when it needs some quiet time. It should be crated for one or two naps per day, especially when making and eating dinner and crated at night. It should not ever have the run of the house till after 6 months of age or housebreaking and training can become very difficult. A puppy should start formal obedience by 6 months of age, preferably sooner.

 

Remember when you choose to adopt a dog you are choosing to take an animal into your home. The animal is not a human baby and humans are not born with canine instincts. Take some time to learn about the canine and be prepared to change your way of life to accommodate the new member of the family.

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WHAT AGE CAN PUPPIES LEAVE THEIR MOTHER FOR NEW HOMES?

Dog breeders and behavioral specialists feel that the 8-12 week range is the adequate age for most dogs to leave their mother for their new homes.

 

Unfortunately, in talking with other dog trainers, behavioral consultants and behaviorists, we all agree we’re seeing a trend of puppies leaving mom and littermates far too young. A puppy who leaves his mother and littermates at five to six weeks of age, or worse yet, even younger, is going to suffer for that throughout his life.

 

NINE TO TEN WEEK OLD PUPS ARE TYPICALLY THE BEST AGE

Since some puppies tend to go through A FEAR PERIOD AT EIGHT WEEKS OF AGE (an awareness of the world around them that can cause anxiety), many breeders and new owners would prefer to wait one or two more weeks.

 

Other dog trainers and behaviorists agree: nine to 10 weeks of age is absolutely fine. In fact at this age, the puppy is past the eight week fear period, if he had one, and he’s a bit more confident now. Developmentally, he’s ready to learn, explore and figure out what his new life is going to be.

 

11 TO 12 WEEKS IS FINE FOR SOME BREEDS

Some breeders prefer to keep their puppies a bit longer than 10 weeks. Those who breed toy breeds especially, including Chihuahuas, Papillons, and other tiny dogs, will keep the puppies until they are 11 to 12 weeks of age. These tiny puppies can be QUITE FRAGILE PHYSICALLY and may be slower to mature mentally and emotionally as babies. A FEW MORE WEEKS WITH THEIR MOTHER AND LITTERMATES, AS WELL AS THE PEOPLE THEY KNOW IN THEIR FAMILY, IS OFTEN BEST FOR THEM.

 

WHY PUPPIES NEED TIME WITH MOM AND LITTERMATES

The mother dog has so much to teach the new puppy; lessons that will affect him all his life, and his littermates teach important lessons as well.

 

To Learn Key Social and Behavioral Traits

Puppies who leave their canine family too early will show immediate behavior problems. They will be fearful of many things and show a lack of confidence. They can also be slow to bond to people or will go the other direction, attaching so strongly to their new owners that they will panic when left alone. The ability to soothe himself, to relax when left alone, is missing with most of these puppies.

 

Biting is common. The mother dog teaches the puppy to control his biting as do the puppy’s littermates. When puppies go to their new home, some biting is to be expected, as all puppies experiment. But when deprived of these early lessons, the puppy will bite more and harder, and teaching him that biting is not allowed is more difficult.

 

Puppies who are removed too early won’t know how to act with other puppies or dogs, and because they act differently, other dogs will react badly to these puppies. Since their mother didn’t have the chance to teach the puppy how to be a dog, he will always be socially inept.

 

PUPPIES NEED TIME TO SWITCH FROM MILK TO SOLID FOOD

Puppies typically go through the weaning process at anywhere from three to five weeks old. This important transition time ensures that puppies receive all the appropriate nutrition from their mother. This will support the long term health of the puppy.

 

Additionally, interrupting the weaning process too early has behavioral side effects for young dogs. Suckling, even past the need for milk can be a source of comfort while a puppy grows accustomed to eating only solid foods. When pups aren’t given adequate time to make the transition themselves, they’re more likely to develop insecurities and anxiety.

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Resources:

Whelping and Raising Puppies Birth to three weeks - https://www.dogbreedinfo.com/whelpingphotos3.htm

Raising Puppies at 3 to 3 ½ Weeks: "Misty Method" - https://www.dogbreedinfo.com/breedingdogs/pottytrainingpuppies3weeks.htm

Raising Puppies: Pups Week 4 - https://www.dogbreedinfo.com/whelpingphotos4.htm

Raising Puppies: Pups Week 5 - https://www.dogbreedinfo.com/whelpingphotos5.htm

Raising Puppies: Pups Week 6 - https://www.dogbreedinfo.com/whelpingphotos6.htm

Raising Puppies: Pups 6 to 7.5 Weeks - https://www.dogbreedinfo.com/whelpingphotos7.htm

Raising Puppies: Pups 8 Weeks - https://www.dogbreedinfo.com/whelpingphotos8.htm

Raising Puppies: Pups 8 to 12 Weeks - https://www.dogbreedinfo.com/whelpingphotos9.htm

​Stages of Puppy Development: https://www.dogbreedinfo.com/breedingdogs/stagespuppydevelopment.htm

WHAT AGE CAN PUPPIES LEAVE THEIR MOTHER FOR NEW HOMES?

Full Article: https://www.thehonestkitchen.com/blog/when-should-puppies-go-to-their-new-home/

More Resources: https://breedingbusiness.com/when-can-puppies-be-without-their-mother/

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As a breeder I strive to produce the best puppies possible and offer them to you. One way is by implementing BioSensor therapy (Supper Dog).

 

The BioSensor Program improves the development of the puppy's neurological systems by early stimulation and stress, resulting in the following benefits for the life of the dog. 

 1. Improved Cardiovascular Performance

2. Stronger Heart Beats

3. Stronger Adrenal Glands

4. More Tolerance to Stress

5. Greater Lifetime Resistance to Disease

 

It is so extraordinary that simple early stimulation of each newborn puppy leads to rapid increased neurological growth and development. This explosive time of potential growth and development only involves a window of time that begins at the third day of life and lasts until the sixteenth day

 

This critical period of development is of great importance to your new puppy and the benefits reaped from those first experiences with the BioSensor program can never be replaced, relived, or regained! 

 

For more information about "BioSensor Program" please visit: https://youtu.be/ja6E4xa-6Hs